It started with a decision to take a vacation to visit my home country, India. I know I have a maximum of 17 days to spare. I decided to spend a week in India and a week backpacking in some country which I had never been to. But now the big question is to which country this time? I opened google maps, drew a virtual line between Toronto and Bangalore and there I got my options. Crazy isn't it, but ya thats how the flights fly and a legitimate way to visit the country on my return journey from India to Canada. I had many options ( obviosuly I have not visited many countires ), with no much thinking the decision was Egypt and I think a justification is not required here...
It was easy to get an Egyptian Visa. After sending my documents by e-mail for approval from consulate and getting their approval I had to send my passport to the embassy in ottawa with Money Order for C$26 and it was all done in a week or so. After getting my vacation dates confirmed it was now time to seach for the right airways and it was emirates which had the flights matching my time, schedule and route YYZ-BLR-CAI-YYZ ( Costed me C$1525 ) . I am all set to explore egypt now.
My Vacation started, I flew from YYZ to BLR, spent around 9 days in India and flew from BLR to CAI on 2-Mar and reached Cairo airport by 11 AM and it starts here...
Day 1: 2nd March 2010: Cairo
Before clearing the customs I went to the National bank of egypt money exchange counter and exchanged my Canadian dollars(C$420 to LE2180 (Egyptian Pounds). It is adviced to do the exchange after arriving in egypt as the rates are way better here than what you can get in your home country. After clearing the customs I collected my 2 big luggages which I have to take to Toronto. I already have a backpack with me with all the stuff required for 6 days, but now I need to find a place to store these luggages for 6 days. To my luck there was no luggage storage in that particular terminal and I was adviced to check in the other terminal. I dragged my luggages till the next termial to just find out that ther is no luggage storage available in any of the cairo terminals. grrrrrrrrr. first blow in the plan. its already 12:30 PM. Now instead of heading directly to Pyramids I had to first find a solution for my luggage. I read somewhere about this while googling so I had a plan B to go to downtown and store the luggage in one of the hostels (Australian Hostel ) and go to pyramids from there. I took the airport shuttle to the airport bus stop. With the help of the Arabic Numerals noted in my printout I managed to read the bus numbers and get in to the right bus which takes me to downtown - First Mistake ( Why did I not take a taxi instead... well I was thinking of saving some money and you will eventually come to know I screwed up). I just paid 2 LE for the bus but travelling through Cairo traffic the bus dropped me at my stop at around 2:00 PM. There was a very kind lady in the bus who was the only one who spoke a little bit of english and helped me get down at the right stop and even after getting down she helped a lot by convincing the taxi guy to take me to the hostel ( he refused to me since it is just a few couple of streets away ). I thanked the kind lady and got in to the taxi thinking of reaching the hostel in 10 mins and I was wrong again... :( the streets of downtown cairo are so much crowded and crooked up even the taxi driver could not find the hostel so easily, after so many enquiries with the people around and the police he managed to drop me at the Australian hostel at 3:00 PM. ooooh, though late I was happy I reached the hostel somehow and now I can be free of my two big luggages.
I entered the hostel, dropped my luggages with the compromise of taking a tour from them to the pyramids facilitate storing my luggage. I know that the Pryamid area closes by 5:00 PM so I though I can reach there before 4:30 but to my shock the hostel guy told me that the ticket counter closes by 4:00 and I might not reach there before 4:00 even if he arranges the tour. I had no choice but to go with him atlast I can have a glimpse of the pyramids before it gets dark. While I was waiting for the taxi I used his computer to send a mail to inform my home that I reached safely in Egypt. The private tour taxi (LE180) arrived at 3:30. It takes 30 mins from downtown to reach the pyramids, I got in to the taxi with the hope that I can reach there on time to get in. I still thougth I can get in till 5:00 PM.
I was not happy at all, but still I wanted to make the most of it. The guide (horse owner) talked about everything than about Pyramids, atleast I was happy that he was speaking english and was courteous enough to make me comfortable on the horse and took some pics (though they were not so great).
From the entire ride I just took away a couple of pics with the Pyramids, a horse ride in the deesert, sunset in the desert and a friendly chat with the guide. It was a nice experience but not for that price which I paid....
Since the first item was a flop I was so keen in making up to the second item, the sound and light show(LE75) of the pyramids which starts at 6:30 PM. I made sure that the horse guide takes me back to the entrance on time eventhough I did not complete the full route. I managed to get the tickets this time on time and watched the show which was I wont say awsome but nice and colourful with the lights luminating the pyramids in different colours. I could not enjoy mush as I was already totally tired as my day started at 2 AM midnight to catch the flight.
Day 2: 3rd March 2010: Luxor
Woke up at 7 AM after a sound sleep before the alarm rang, got ready, had so-called breakfast priovided by the hotel and by the time I was wondering whether the pickup will actually show up since the booking was just oral without any receipt after making the payment, my pickup was there at the hotel lobby sharply at 8 AM, I was happy that I was not deceived. From the hotel I was picked up by a car and dropped at a common place where a minivan was waiting which is the one in which I am going to spend the entire day. A couple from South America were inside and after picking me up we headed to a hotel nearby to pickup 6 more chinese tourists and then we headed out for the tour. We had a tour guide who started briefing about the tour and all the time throughout the day he was expecting us to listem to him when he speaks but never did he got any attention from the chinese group execpt for one guy who atleast cared not to make him feel bad and tried to listen the bla bla's from the guide for the sake for it :). The plan for the day was to cover The Valley of Kings, Valley of Queens, Hatshepsut's Temple & Colossi of Memnon on the Luxor West bank and Luxor Temple and Kanark Temple on the Luxor east bank.
Our first stop for the day was at the Valley of the Kings. At the ticket counter I learnt that the tickets are half price for students with Id'sall over egypt.. wow thats a great price for students. All of the Chinese gang in my tour were having the student ID card and all of them looked same. I had no idea if that was some generic card. I asked them where they got it and I was told that they got it in their home country. Even the couple had their cards but unfortunately the Id's had expired dates and they informed that since they are in their march break they will not get the new ID until they go back to school after it opens, but the funny part was they had a hard time explaining this to the ticketing person and most of the times they had to get it solved with the superiors there and this happened at most counters all throughout the day. I was feeling sorry for them as atleast I could feel that their card is a original one compared to the cards which the chinese ppl were holging, I really doubted them, but who knows they might be real as well. We got the tickets for teh Valley of the Kings (80LE) with admission to 3 tombs. There were more than 50 tombs of the kings and if you need to enter more than 3 tombs you have to get more tickets. and also there were some special tombs which require special tickets, one of them costing LE100-King Tut's, another LE50-RamsesVI . I decided not to get any extra as the guide informed that all tombs are almost the same inside. The chinese gang went ahead and got extra ticket for RamsesVI tomb. Well, they have their discount they can offord it. We paid LE 4 for the train-shuttle to take us up the hill, but it was just a walking distance which we did not bother to walk under the burning sun.
Our guide advised us to elave the camera in the van since the camera is not allowed inside which we ignored and we had to leave it near the entrance where they were collected to be returned back when leaving the site. One of the guys selling the photograph's pack handed over one pack to our guide. Its a marketting gimmick I learnt later. Our guide used these photographs to explain about the things which we could see and which we should note inside the tombs. The photographs were gr8. Since we can enter only 3 tombs our guide took us to the tombs which are the closest and before enteing each tomb he woudl explain us about the tomb and things to see and would leave us all alone to explore inside ourselves and he would wait outside for us to return. He did the same for all the three tombs, we explored the tombs ourselves trying to figure out the patterns which we saw in the photographs used by our guide, I was able to figure 3 or 4 of them :). It was hot and sweating inside the tombs with tourists crowded everywhere. We spent nearly 30 mins in each tomb trying to figure out what was painted on the walls. But most of them are worn out, and its the same condition almost everywhere in egypt. But even then they looked so good and mystic, I used to wonder how beautiful and colourful they would have been when they were in their initial days. All the 3 tombs which I entered were of the Ramses's. after 2 tombs our guide gave us option to choose any tomb of our choice and visit it, Since I have already been inside 2 of them and both them were not much different I picked up the one which is closer and which had a double tomb, I guess it was of Ramses IX. Anyways even that was not so different except for having two tombs. The chinese gang explored the extra tomb which they wanted and bought. I was happy I did not spend that extra amount. We were now done with the Valley of the kings and all of us were already sweating under the scrotching Sun. On our way outside we collected our Camera's ignoring the Baksheesh(Tip) request by the keeper and headed to our Van.
The only picture I could take there was of the tiny bazzaar selling egyptian artworks. On the way back the guide handed over the postard pack to the one who gave him while entering and asked if anyone is interested to buy that. Poor guy, he did not find any buyers...
We headed to our next stop, Hatshepsut's Temple, a mortuary temple. After paying for the tickets(LE30 ) and entering the campus we were amazed by what we saw. We decided to walk instaed of taking the train-shuttle to the top. The temple seemed to have been built at the footsteps of a mountain and the sight of it was mind blowing. We looked so tiny in front of this magnificient site. As usual our guide explained about the temple and let us on our own to explore the temple. We spent around 1 hour there exlporing the temple and taking some snaps.
The Next stop was suppose to be Valley of the Queens, but one of the Chinese guy asked if we can visit Habu temple which is nearby instead of Valley of Queens. Our guide also suggested us to visit that as Valley of Queens is similar to Valley of Kings with Similar tombs just that they are for Queens. After seeing the tombs in the Valley of Kings it was a unanimous decision to go to Habu Temple instead of Valley of Queens and I was happy about the decision. We headed to habu temple, mortuary temple of Ramesses III (LE30) and entered the site. The temple entrance was attractive with inscribed reliefs. Pylons after Pylons, Big Pillars with Paintings is what I could recollect. It was another great site on the west bank.
It was alreaddy 2 PM we left the Colossi of memnon site to the east bank. We were dropped in downtown near the hotel were everyone was staying and was given an hour time to get back after lunch. I wandered aroudn to find some restaurant, I saw many but most of them were crowded, I went to a one with less crowd and later after having my lunch realized why the crowd was less there.
We all gathered back at 3:30 to continue with our tour for the day. 4 more joined the tour. The first stop after lunch was the Kanark Temple, the biggest temple in egypt. After getting the tickets(LE65) our guide tried to explain us the history and geography of the temple with only a couple of us listening, while he was explaining all throughout the temple.
Day 3: 4th March 2010: Luxor - Edfu - Aswan
Minutes before 5 AM I woke up, and again before the alarm rang, how did I? dont ask me, I am still wondering... I got ready in a hurry packing up my backpack to checkout. Since I will be leaving directly to station to catch the train on time I wont have time to come back to hotel and checkout. I checked out of the hotel when my pickup arrived sharply at 5:30. I was taken to the Nile River bank where a boat was waiting. tehre were already aroudn 15 people in the boat and I am sure all of them are going to be on the same balloon. We were provided with some snacks and tea and I could not take any of them as they had egg and me not giving my eating habits though hungry did not take them. I dont even take tea... Saaaaaad.... but no worries I had an apple and a few bananas left which I bought last night and that would suffice for a while.
Within Minutes we were on the west bank and there were two vans waiting for us which took us on a 15 mins drive to the balloon takeoff location. When we reached the spot they were still preparing the balloon for the takeoff and got a chance to see the huge balloon growing to its size in form of my eyes. It was already 6:15 and the sun started peeping out. Oh No! I was expecting to see the sunrise during the balloon ride but not before taking off, I was sad for a momemnt. But soon I realized what big deal I saw the sunsise and now I can enjoy the balloon ride in a serial manner instead of doing them parallely, its all just conection and interpretation right :)...
The pilot took us to an altitude of around 3000 ft, and after around 40 mins of flight he decided to land and got permission from the controllers with the walky talky which he had. Getting the permission we are free to land now. Just 40 mins of flight, it could have been more longer, hmmm, but wait it is not over yet we are yet to land and we are still at high altitude, then I recollected what was told during takeoff that the balloon can not land anywhere, the pilot needs to find a proper place amd proper position and wind direction to land. We were flying over the greenlands of egypt with palm/date trees everywhere below us, even other balloons right below us. The balloon started coming down and we were just a coupel hundred feets above the gorund and pilot can land anytime. now we were flying above the rural houses nearby and we could see children and even grown ups waving hands and we too were exited in returning the happiness back.
At Somepoints the balloon was too low I used to think its going to crash in to one of the palm trees nearby as the pilot does not seem to have noted the trees, I soon realized its of no matter he knows whats under and within seconds he can raise the balloon to a highert altitude by pumping flame. Wow thats amazing, flying so low over the trees,plantations, rural houses donkey carts ( yes ) was an experience difficult to forget. After two attempts of landing the wind started taking the balloon to a proper spot suitable for landing away from teh houses in the desert. The pilot was happy and even most of the people were as it was already more than 1 hour in the balloon. The pilot found the spot and was ready to land, the landing crew were following the balloon and were ready at the landing spot to help smooth landing of the balloon. Once the balloon came close to the land the crew holded the balloon and made sure it was a soft landing and our pilot even excused us from taking the landing position which we exercised before take off, thanks to the crew. I got my pic taken with teh hep of one of the crew member ( just as a proof of my flight for showoff :) )
Once down the crew started folding the balloon forcing the air out and they were fighting hard to do it and it seemed to bea tough job. We left them in our vans which were waiting for us back to the boat. On the way a small boy riding his donley kept following the van looking for anything we can give him. One of the lady in the van offered him a choclolate and he was more than happy to take it. Soon another boy riding his donkey appreared from nowhere signing to give him chocolate as well. He kept following for some distance and then left in vain. I could see both these boys riding their donkeys like horses and they were so well tamed for riding, and this was the first time I saw someone riding a donkey. A certificate for the flight and a T-shirt was given to us as a souvenir. The boat dropped crossed the river and dropped us back at the east bank and from there we were dropped at the required destinations where we wanted to go, I decided to head directly to the station as it was already around 8:30 AM and over my time schedule.
At the ticket counter I was informed to get the tickets inside the train. Though there were only 2 platforms I could not figure out which is the right one myself and had to take help from a policeman. The policemen can be seen every 100 ft all over egypt wherever you find people, they are very friendly and helpful as well. When I was waiting for the train a young man came and asked-signed if I rememberd him. Yes, ofcourse he was one of the guys whom I met in Kanark temple the day before. He was so happy be chatting with a foreigner, he shared some pics of his friends in his mobile and played some songs for me to listen. It was a nice chat with him though he did not understand english what I was speaking and I did not understand arabic what he was speaking :), it was sign controlled converstaion.
I need to go to Aswan today visiting temples in Edfu and Kom Ombo on the way. After waiting for around 30 mins a train arrived in the direction I need to go. After confirming if it will stop in Edfu I boarded the train signing off from my just-met egyptian friend who was waiting for another train with his college gang. I found a seat in the car but was not comfortable with it, so decided to check the another class and started traversing the train. I got in to another class car which seemed the same. After sitting for a while I realized it did not have AC, I thought I can adjust but the heat took over me and I went back to the original car where I sat but jsut to find no proper free seat. Then I traveresed in opposite direction to see any other class and came to another class car. Even before entering a fellow egyptian traveller signed that it is a higher class car. Though it did not seem to be of any much difference apart from having private cabins. All the classes were similarly dirty looking , the only difference I could find is that the the lower one did not have AC and the higher had private cabins. The Ticket issuer inside the train quoted me a price not matching my printout assuming I am going till Aswan, then after clarifying that I need to go only till Edfu he quoted a different price slightly lower. Still it was double the Printout price, I did not bother as I thought it might be because of the class. I paid for my tickets(LE42) and went to the seat he assigned to me in the private cabin where a lady was sitting with her little child. All these search just for an hours travel from Luxor to Aswan. The windows of the train was so dirty I could not pass time looking the flow of Nile River and the crop fileds on its banks. The child kept on starring at me even without any eye blink continuously for minutes. I donk know if he was scared of was wondering what creature was I...who know. Time passed both of us starring at each other.
Soon the ticket issuer came to the cabin and sat there to make sure I get down at the station I wanted to. There came my station in minutes and I got down. The station was like just another Indian rural town train station ( as seen in my native town :) ). I went straight to the taxi stand, bargained hard to get till Edfu temple for LE5. I started barganining hard started now since I realized I did not have much cash left with me to spend the rest of 4 days.
Outside the temple I was looking for taxi which I could not find, following which I went to take help from teh policemen. By the time I was enquiring about taxi with the police a couple of persons from the caleche/horse carraiges stand came forward to take me to the Railway Station. I know it was far away to go by a Caleche but I did not have any other choice. After bargain they agreed on LE5 to drop me till the station and took me. But after 5 mins of ride they stopped at the end of the street and asked me to get in to the shared local van which goes to the station. I was confused, I didn't knew what to do and I could not argue as well as no one speaks English. I was desperately trying to understand what they are telling , and thankfully there was a guy in teh van who spoke english and he explained me that the van will take me till the station and I need not pay anything extra. On his words I paid the Caleche man and got in to the van. I was also happy that i will reach the station faster. On the way everyone got down and I was the last one to be dropped at the station and the driver demanded for money... ooopss.. I did not understand whay and he did not udnerstand why. I tried to argue for sometime saying I already paid to his friend (Caleche man ). But he said in sign language and some engligh that that was for Caleche and I need to pay for the van ride. I got angry as I was not suppose to pay anything to this guy as told by the Caleche man. But stil even after 5 mins of fuming agrument (though both us did not fully understand what the other guy is saying) I decided to give up and gave him LE5 and left the van closing the door with a very force intentionally showing my anger :) and walked away even without turning back, thank goodness he did not reciprocate :) for my behaviour. It was alredy 12:30 PM
Enquiring at the ticket counter I was told that the next train will arive soon and went to the appropriate paltform. The station had just two platforms and a couple of people including me waiting for the train and couple of persons sleeping peacefully in the waiting slabs there. A typical Indian rural train station scene in Egypt :). one of the local tasking rest informed me that the train will arive in 10 mins. I waited and waited, 10 mins beame 30 mins and still there was no sign of the train. I became impatient and started asking others including the person who worked there and he confirmed me that the train was late and will arrive after 1 hour. I had no other thoughts than to wait. I had few fruits and a biscuit packet in my backpack which temporarily fixed my hunger. And most importantly I made sure that I had enough water with me starting the time I landed in egypt till I left ( Thanks to the reviews I found in google). Even before the water bottle gets empty I used to get a new one.
This is the first time in my life I took so much care for water and it paid off. I never went in to a situation where I had to search for drinking water or a store to buy. I even had lended the same to a couple of locals who had emptied their supply :). This time I just sat in the car where I got in. I think they do not have sweepers in egypt (Not only in trains, everywhere in hotels, parks, roads, stations, taxi, bus, etc etc a lot of waste garbage can be seen lying around). Dont know whom to blame, the people or the Govt. I atlast had found a place worser in cleanliness than Indian slums and I was glad I can now be happier back in India. Seated besides an egyptian young man we started to talk, again in partially sign language. It is very rare to find english speaking locals in egypt and at the same time it is very rare to meet a local who did not knew Amitabh bachan. Yes even he knew about him and mentioned some of the hindi movie names, songs, hero names. I smiled. He happened to be just another poilcemen on vacation which he tried to convey me desperately and I understood only after he showed his police Id card. He also offered me bananas which e had as a friendly gesture, though I refused to take initially I ended up taking one not to make him feel bad and put it in my pocket. I decided to skip the Kom ombo temple as I was already late and I lost almost 1.5 hours waiting in Edfu, so that I can reach Aswan on time to vist the Philae temple which had a higher priority in my list. Soon, the Ticket checker came and was surprised to hear that the cost of my ticket till Aswan was just LE5.5. I did not think much, I just paid, I was happy it saved me some bucks. In this train the windows were open, I was able to get fresh air and the train route ran on the banks of Nile river. I was enjoying the egyptian countryside, riverside scenary. The river banks are the only place where I could see green stuff, everywhere else it was just stones, sand and desert.

As I was already short of cash I decided to check in the nearby hotel as there were many nearby. I walked in to Horus hotel which was besides Hathor to get a price of LE80 and after bargain settled with LE70. The room was clean and the hotel located in the banks of Nile had a great view of the Nile, Feluccas, ships etc from its windows and the balcony. It was a great view of Aswan. My Plan was to visit Philae temple that evening and the receptio guy alarmed me saying that the ticket counter closes by 4 PM. It was already 3:30 Pm. Oops. Immediately after paying and entering my room, I dumped my backpack, washed my face and headed straight down to catch a taxi. I couldnt even lock the door which I foudn difficult and left the keys in reception in a hurry and asked them to close it.
After around an hour of journey time the train reached Aswan and as it was the sounternmost tip of the egyptian railways everyone got down with me. It was already 3 PM. I was hungry but decided to first checkin to the hotel and then take lunch. My Printouts told me it was a walking distance to the hotel ( Hathor hotel ) and hence I started walking, but soon I realized that SUN factor was not considered there. After walking for nearly a km I decided to ask someone the location and take a taxi, but I was told it is just another 5 mins walk down the street and they were right. The hotel receptionist told me a price of LE 75 + LE 10 for Breakfast against the price of LE65 which was mailed to me when I enquired booking and he was not willing to bargain.
After waiting for a couple of minutes on the road a taxi stopped on my sign and after hard bargain once again he took me to Philae temple for LE10 from Aswan downtown. I had to pay another LE5 at the entrance for the taxi. I found a family nearby who just got the tickets and they informed me to hurry as the counter is getting closed. By the time I reached the ticket counter it was 3:48 but the counter was closed. oh No not again. This time I did not give up, I convinced the security that it is not 4:00 yet and I am coming from a long distance to see the temple. Somehow I was taken inside the ticket booth and a ticket(LE50) was given to me, I was the last one to get the tickets for the day. Well, what more can I ask for. I would have been very upset If I had not made it as it was the temple which I was eager to Visit in the entire egypt. The main reasons for it being the entire temple complex had been moved from one island to another (Check google for history and geography) and for being located in an island in the Nile River waters with a beautiful view.
The family were also happy that I got the tickets and they looked more like Indians, egyptions look somewhat like Indians. On knowing I was from India, they starting talking about Hindi movies, Amitabh bachan as usual and had a short chat. To reach the Philae temple I had to take a boat ride but since I was alone the boatmen took it advantage and was quoting a price which was 5 to 6 times the normal price. But the guys in the family convinced the boatmen saying I was with them and helped me to take the ride to and back for the nominal price of LE20. On the way to the island crossing the beautiful clean nile river the view of the temple suddenly appearing behind the stones where it was hiding took over my eyes. It was a classic view of the temple that can be seen in all the photographs.
Philae temple is a special temple for its location, history and movement and appearance compared to others temples I have seen in egypt. Apart from these its formula was same as others temples. I had an hour to explore the temple before the closing time and getting back to the boat. The temple's complex is pretty big and I for sometime did not realize that this entire complex has been moved, and if you do not know about this it is not possible to figure out as it looks so natural. The island had great vews of Nile. After spending enough time at the temple and its surrounding I went back to meet the family with whom I came and spent sometime chatting with them and they took some photographs with me ( ya I was special to them as an Indian :)) . They had a cute kid ( the pic shows the kid with mom ). After a while we decided to leave as it was getting dark and went to our boats which took us to the entrance. On the way we could see many birds ( I have no idea what their names are, I have no interest for learning about birds apart from admiring them ).
It was 6:00 we reached the main ticket counter and I said goodbye to the family who left for the day. I stayed back since I have to see the Sound and Light Show in the Philae temple. But to my luck the English language Sound and Light Show that day was at 8:30 PM. I could have decided to go back to hotel and come back, but anyways I would have lost 1 hour on the road and I did not have anything to do in hotel so I stayed back to spend time near the ticket counter. I found a canteen nearby and went inside to see if I can have any thing. I was surprised to see the canteen being run by a couple of adults. I could see only vegeterian stuff there and I was happy. I tasted the authentic egyptian local food for the first time that day. It was some baked beans, cooked eggplants, some vegetables and pita bread, They call it falafal, Tamaya, etc... I dont know what is the name for what. I just pointed out what I wanted and had them. I dont know if it was because I did not have proper food the entire day the food was so good though it was just basic. I liked it. It just costed me around LE10 and was my first satisfactory meal in egypt. The persons inside were so friendly and they too started talking about Hindi films and amitabh bachan. They even changed the TV channel for me to see and I was surprised to see a hindi movie playing with arabic subtitles. It was then I came to know how poeple knew about bollywood in egypt. I watched TV for around an hour (though I can only understand a bit of hindi. Though from India my mother tongue is a different language ). I came out for sometime on advice from the person running the canteen to check the timing again as a toursit bus arrived, but it was spanish this time, So I went back to the canteen to wait for another hour. He sarted to close the canteen for the day but the building was open. It seemed as if everyone who worked including the wokers, staff and the security come here in their free time and have some snacks, smoke and chat. And all of them seemed to know each other and whenever someone comes in they noticed me and someone else introdcued me to the new person. It was the day I interacted with so many locals in a short time and was chatting with whomever were comfortable with a little english. One thing I noted is that everyone knows Amitabh bachan, everyone happens to smoke all the time, and everyone seemed to be very very friendly and helpful. It was a nice cultural experience. I was also offered a Nubian tea for free which I frist denied but later volunteered and took it (I felt bad for denying their hospitality). The tea was the best I had ever had in my life. They even offered me to try their traditional smoking Shisha. But this time I decided not to try it out as I strictly dont smoke and did not feel bad either. I was chitchatting with the security guards for a while and then it was time for me to say good bye to the person running the canteen after handing over some baksheesh. These 2 hours gave me a memorable expereince with the locals, it was something which I can never forget. It was different.
I went to the ticket counter to get the tickets(LE75) and went to the boat landing zone to get a boat again to the island. This time I definitely know that I am going to get screwed since I was alone and it was night. There was a guy who was speaing good english and he started chatting with me. He happened to be a boatman but was not willing to give any discount for me and since I was alone I had to pay for the entire boat myself which will be around LE100, he was business minded I suppose. But though he told me that if any groups would allow me to join them I can go with them. So I started the first group whose guide agreed, but this boatman told something and then the guide said otherwise and left. I doubted the boatman was playing a doublegame and asked him direclty. But then he refused saying that he just reminded the guide about the rules, and he also felt bad that I mistook him and felt guilty, and kept saying it again and again. There came another group and he encouraged me to go and ask them and there I went to be accepted and he too was happy this time. The guides in this group had only two guests and they took me with them as I told them I will pay my share.
Day 4: 5th March 2010: Aswan - Abu Simbel
This time the alarm woke me at around 5:30 AM, I got ready and was out by 6. Aswan is the best place to see Nile at its best and to take a leisurely felucca sail. Feluccas are traditional Egyptian boats with a single triangular sail put on wooden masts. During the sail one can visit the two islands between its banks, the Kitchner and the Elephantine Island. I headed directly down and the customer support guy of the hotel was interested in knowing what I am up to and on informing him about the felucca, he took me to the felucca team just opposite to the hotel on the eastern banks of Nile at Aswan. It was early morning and I did not see any feluccas in the river. I was all alone I did not have any company to share the price, So I had to pay for the full price. The Felucca captains quoted a price of LE80/hr and came down to LE60, but this is not the price I can offord. After some bargain I felt the place looking out for some other docking station to check the prices there as I know there are many. I thanked the person wo helped me and started walking along the bank. Along the way I was offered prices which did not suit me and after 15 mins of walk I enquired someone who seem to speak english. He was not the Felucca person, but he negotiated the price with me and introduced me to the Felucca captain. After some hard bargaining we settled for LE40/hour. Since I was all alone I dont have much option and this is the best I can get. I decided to to go on sail for an hour.
To get to his felucca boat, we had to pass through many other feluccas and boats which were docked along the river bank. It was like walking over a boat bridge in water. The felucca was quite big and can easily hold 15 people, but I was all alone with the Felucca captain. It was a private sail :). The captain had to take help from one of his friends to untie the rope of the sail as it was stuck, the person climbed up the mast and freed up the sail and we were all set to start. The winds are the only fuel to move the felucca and the captain has to adjust his sails to point to the right direction depending on the direction we need to go and the direction of the wind. I have not seen something which can be moved in any direction regardless of the direction of the wind, just simple basic mechanics. 
The captain started the sail and I was enjoying the nile view for sometime after which I decided to take the role of the captainand started steering it. Well it was tricky and did not seem to be as simple as when he was doing it. I moved the steer in one direction and the felucca moved the opposite and its how it seems to work. I was getting confused most of the time as thats not how our instincts react. I was in control for around 20 minutes with his guidance and I got tired soon and retired from my new job handing it over back to him. The only disadantage is that the felucca can not go in a straight line to go in one direction, it takes the zig zag path as it depends on wind flow. So it took a longer time to cross a distance than I expected and soon I realized 1 hour is not going to be sufficient. I was expecting to stop at Elephantine Island to visit the museum and the nubian villages but it needs longer time and I would have to pay more for making the felucca wait for that time.
The Kitchner Island is a small one and is basically a botanical garden, so I deicded to go there instaed of next day as per original plan. The felucca Captain dropped me on one end of the island and said he will wait on the ohter end to pick me up. The entrance ticket costed LE10 and I spent around 20 mins in the small Island which seemed to have all kinds of trees from all over the world. It also had a nice view of the western bank as it was nearby from this island. I also got a chance to glimpse at some birds in the island and as well during the felucca sail. The Captain was waiting on the other side and took off immediately on my arrival on the other side.
It was already 1.5 hours sailing. Soon I could see a few other feluccas and boats around. The sight of felucca sailing in the nile is magnetic, it is something you dont get to see everywhere and it was my first experience and I enjoyed the sights. I could also see the Mausoleum of the Aga Khan closeby which I wanted to visit the next day. But since I had a good sight of it from the felucca I decided to skip it the next day to save some time.
During the Sail I saw two small kids with their private boat rowing with help of a small pad to the western bank, I was surprised, they were really very young. On the way back to the east bank we had to pass by elephantine island and I could see some elephantlike formations in the stones of the island which gave its name. Soon our felucca reached the starting point and was time to pay the captain and say bye. Since i initially asked for an hour sail but it became 2 hours I started to negotiate but its not his fault either. I had to pay LE80, I paid him LE70 and he was fine with it as he too knew I was expecing only an hours sail. I thanked him and left the place. He was a Nubian and speaking with him it seemed he was proud to be Nubian and expressed that they are well mannered people who stick to their words and wont charge more (oviously this info came during bargain talk :)). Aswan is the place where I first met Nubian people and is the starting point of the upper egypt. Ironically the Upper egypt lies on the sountern part and the Lower egypt lies on the northern part and Why? i found out later that the division is based on the flow of the Nile River and not based on the geography. The Nile Flows from south to North and hence the ironic names which had confused me for a long time.
By the time I finished the felucca sail, it was 8:30 AM. I was not left with much cash to spend the next 2 days. I had around 176 USD in my walet, left over from my previous trip to US which came handy. I went to the bank and got 120 USD converted to LE657. Now I had some cash to rely on. I have the hobby of coin collection and whenever I visit any new country I collect one piece of all denominations and paper currency which are in circulation. Thats the reason you find the list in my prinout :). Since I have more cash now I kept aside those currencies for my collection and this reduced my cash limits even after exchange.
I went back to the hotel and packed my backpack and headed to have breakfast in the hotel canteen. The canteen located on the top floor had a nice view of the Nile River through its windows and I had a nice breakfast overlooking the Nile enjoying the views. After my breakfast I checked out of the hotel and went down to catch a taxi to bus stop. I got in to a taxi before fixing a price and within some distance he stopped near a shop for one of his other passengers, there I asked him for the price and he was not agreeing on the price of LE10 which I quoted. I got down to find some other taxi. The point were I got down had a medical store, I was badly looking for one as I was having cold for the last one week and now sore throat and dry cough added to it. I went straight inside to get some tablets. While the shopkeeper was searching for some tablet I found Strepsils lying down there and I was more than happy to forget the tablets and pay for a big strip of strepsils for LE10 approx. On my way out I was approached by a taxi driver and he agreed to take me to the Aswan bus stop for LE10. On the way were chatting and he was a friendly guy who on knowing I am going to Abu Simbel took me to exact stop where the bus for abu simbel stops, but there was no bus at the time and hence suggested me to take a mini vans used by locals and took me to them who were steps away from the busstop. He asked them to help me and left.
On seeing me they agreed to take me but soon they realized that I am from India and they were afraid. Wondering why? :) I knew they are going to react like this. The route from Aswan to Abu Simbel goes through a desert and foreigners are not allowed to travel without police convoy and the convoy goes only twice daily at around 4 AM in the morning and at 5 PM in the evening. Some tourists were attacked in the past and thats the reason for the security measures. I knew about it. There are many tours going from Aswan to Abu Simbel and all of them are day tours, they start at 3 AM in the morning, join the convoy, reach abu simbel at around 7, spend 2 hours thers and return back to Aswan. But my plan was to stay at Abu Simbel and watch the Sound and light show in the night at the temples which is highly recommended. I was hoping to take the 11 AM pubic bus but later learnt that there is no bus at that time and I had to wait till 5 PM in the evening to take one which left the only option on the mini vans used by locals. After spending around 30 mins trying to convince them saying I look like Nubian and the police wont recognize me and even if caught I will take the blame on myself the driver agreed to take me. Another egyptian local also helped me to convince the driver. I had to pay double LE50 but I did not bother, I just wanted to reach Abu Simbel on time for the show.
I took my seat and we waited for another 30 mins for the van to get full and then we started. I was happy I found some way at last. My happiness lasted just for 20 mins by when we came across a security checkpost. Just a second of glance inside the van a policeman identified me and picked me up and started enquiring about my country, passport etc. The other policeman were condemning the driver for taking me. The polciemen were discussing among themselves of what to do and even they seem to be confused. But one guy asked me to step out and told that I can not go in the van and I need to wait till evening for the convoy. He started askking me why I did not take the convoy. I then explained him that I need to see the Sound and Light Show and I cant make it if I take the convoy and my willingness to stay there overnight. He was not convinced and was not ready to allow me. The pocliemen even got back LE50 which I had paid to the driver and gave me back. They asked me to take my backpack and I was out of the van with my backpack wonderng what to do now. I was just desperately starring at them. There came the last question from one of the policemen "are you muslim?" I answered "No", the other one asked "are you christian?" I answered "No", wondering what the first person again asked what my religion is, I answered "Hindu". On hearing that their reactions turned positive and they said "You can go ahead in the van and wished me to enjoy their sound and light show". They were happy to hear my answer and I was totally surprised. Within a couple of minutes all the policemen surrouning us dispered wishing me and I was just so extremely happy. I thanked the policemen, and the driver started the van with a big sign of relief in his face. Everyone at the scene were happy :). This is the first time in my life my religion had any impact in my activities either it be positive or negatie and it still is the only time.

It was a long 3 to 4 hour journey through the extreme egyptian desert. All I could see was sand and piles of black sand, and the straight road in front of me and the tourist buses in the opposite direction returning from Abu Simbel. During this long journey it was just at one location I found some greenary and trees and I guess it was some kind of research centre and a couple of persons got down here. On the way we had to stop at a couple of more sectiry checkposts and though they reognized me as a foreigner, they did not bother much. On reaching Abu Simbel town the driver went inside the town to drop passengers at their home as some of them had huge luggages. I had the opportunity to traverse through the local streets sitting inside the van. Soon we reached the Abu Simbel bus stop and everyone got down and I was the last one. I had informed the driver earlier to take me to a hotel and so he asked me to sit so that he can take me after dropping everyone. A polieman noticed me inside the van and asked where I had to go. I informed him about the hotel where I had enquired before and showed him the phone number and name. On seeing it he said it is nearby and told me that he will take me there. I thanked the driver and got out with my backpack. It was just 5 mins walk to the Nobaleh Ramses hotel which was right infornt of the bus stop. The policeman seemed to be very happy helping me and knowing I am Indian, he was pleased. he also asked me how much I paid for the taxi and on my answer he said I had paid more and guarenteed that next day he will find a van for me for LE30 to return back.
It was around 3:30 PM when I reached the hotel. The hotel owner took me to show the room and quoted a price of LE180, but I was expecting a price of LE140 and he agreed to my price without any bargain. I went to the room and left my backpack there to go out and have lunch. Though the hotel Owner informed me that they serve great food, he could not find anyone to serve me when I went to the resaurant inside. I decided to try out somewhere as I was very hungry and started walking. With the help of locals there I went to a small foodshop and was happy to see vegetarian local egyptian food on display there. I pointed out and took 4 of them including falafal, tamaya, pita, vegetables. The food was really good and tasty and I ate to my stomach full. It costed me only LE15 compared to the unsatisfactory continental food I had in Luxor for LE50 twice. I decided to stick with this menu for the rest of my stay in egypt. After having food and getting some water I went back to the hotel to take some rest. I took a short nap for 30 mins and at around 5:00 PM decided to head to the temples.
The hotel owner informed me that the temples are walking distance only and said that I have to just follow the mountain wich wass visible from the hotel. I had plenty of time and I started to walk as it was a pleasant evening and was relatively cool. These temples too were moved from another place to save from the rising waters of Nile river after the construction fo Aswan dam same as Philae temple. The mountain where the temple reside now is an artifically built mountain which is not identifiable by naked eye. The credit foes to UNESCO. After 20 mins of walk I reached the temple entrance. On the way I witnessed some beautiful views of the Nile River as the temple is built on the river bank. I could not find the ticket counter and was adviced by the secirity to get the tickets in one of the shops nearby who sold the tickets for the sound and light show. I went to the shop and got my ticket which costed LE75. Though it was printed LE60 there was a manual correction in the ticket to show LE75. When I clarified about it a local guide confirmed me that they changed the price and even he paid the same for the tickets for his guests. He wittingly told "You are in egypt and they do not waste anything and reuse everything possible". 
Since the first Sound and Light show for the day at 7:00 PM was of french language I had to wait till 8:00 PM for the english show. I spent the time wandering around and viewing the Nile. I could also see a few tourist ships docked in the Nile and tourists emerging form the ship towards the temple. These ships start from Cairo and travel all the way down south till Abu Simbel stopping at all the major sites in between. All the major sites are located in the banks of Nile River and a ship cruise would be a luxurious way of sighseeing in egypt sailing in the beautiful Nile River. Definitely that demands lot of time to spend and lot of money. I did not have both and hence I took the roadway instead of the riverway, mine was a backpacking trip and not a luxory tour. My time came and I entered the temple campus. On entry we faced the bak side of the mountain. We had to walk all the way around the mountatin to go to the front side where the temples were and not visible from behind. The colossal statues at the entrance of the temples were lighted by that time and it was a wonderful sight. There are two temples there.( Check google for more info ). I went and took a good seat to watch the show. Before the show started I just turned my head towards the sky like that and the sight blew me down. It was a clear night sky filled with stars all over, believe me they were all over till my eyes can reach . I have never seen so many stars in the sky. For few more minutes, eventhough the show started I was glancing at the skies and there I saw a shooting star :), yes a shooting star for the second time in my life (The first time was in my childhood , most probably 20 years back, when I was playing with my friends in bangalore near my relatives house ). It was visible for a long time for me to confirm that it was a shooting star. Only a couple of flights land at Abu simbel in a day and the airport is so close by, it can not be a plane at such a height.
The show lasted for around 1 hour and this was the best of all the 3 sound and light shows I saw in egypt. I thoroughly enjoyed it. It was a feast to the eyes and ears. The music used for the show was mesmerising. After the show I headed back to the hotel walking down the same path back. The sound of the birds in the nearby trees filled the way. I reached the hotel at around 9:30 PM and went to bed at around 10 PM. It was a good day. I have to get up at 5:00 AM next morning to go to the temple again to see the sunrise at the temples which is the next thing on my list.

The alarm woke me up at 5 AM and by 5:30 AM I was out on my way walking towards the temple. The sunrise will happen soon after 6 AM and I need to be inside the temple campus by that time to witness the same. It was dark when I started, I know its a 20 mins walk and while I was walking the sky started changing colours expecting the arrival of the sun. I reached the site by around 6 AM since I had some brief stops on the way to view the changing colours of the sky and the view of the Nile just before dawn. It was dramatic to see the colours changes and by the time I reached the ticket counter it was no more dark. After getting my tickets (LE80) I walked on my way around the temple to have a close view of the colossal statues from nearby. Last night we did not get chance to go near the statues as the sound and light show seats are located at some distance away from the temples.
This time the alarm woke me at around 5:30 AM, I got ready and was out by 6. Aswan is the best place to see Nile at its best and to take a leisurely felucca sail. Feluccas are traditional Egyptian boats with a single triangular sail put on wooden masts. During the sail one can visit the two islands between its banks, the Kitchner and the Elephantine Island. I headed directly down and the customer support guy of the hotel was interested in knowing what I am up to and on informing him about the felucca, he took me to the felucca team just opposite to the hotel on the eastern banks of Nile at Aswan. It was early morning and I did not see any feluccas in the river. I was all alone I did not have any company to share the price, So I had to pay for the full price. The Felucca captains quoted a price of LE80/hr and came down to LE60, but this is not the price I can offord. After some bargain I felt the place looking out for some other docking station to check the prices there as I know there are many. I thanked the person wo helped me and started walking along the bank. Along the way I was offered prices which did not suit me and after 15 mins of walk I enquired someone who seem to speak english. He was not the Felucca person, but he negotiated the price with me and introduced me to the Felucca captain. After some hard bargaining we settled for LE40/hour. Since I was all alone I dont have much option and this is the best I can get. I decided to to go on sail for an hour.
By the time I finished the felucca sail, it was 8:30 AM. I was not left with much cash to spend the next 2 days. I had around 176 USD in my walet, left over from my previous trip to US which came handy. I went to the bank and got 120 USD converted to LE657. Now I had some cash to rely on. I have the hobby of coin collection and whenever I visit any new country I collect one piece of all denominations and paper currency which are in circulation. Thats the reason you find the list in my prinout :). Since I have more cash now I kept aside those currencies for my collection and this reduced my cash limits even after exchange.
I went back to the hotel and packed my backpack and headed to have breakfast in the hotel canteen. The canteen located on the top floor had a nice view of the Nile River through its windows and I had a nice breakfast overlooking the Nile enjoying the views. After my breakfast I checked out of the hotel and went down to catch a taxi to bus stop. I got in to a taxi before fixing a price and within some distance he stopped near a shop for one of his other passengers, there I asked him for the price and he was not agreeing on the price of LE10 which I quoted. I got down to find some other taxi. The point were I got down had a medical store, I was badly looking for one as I was having cold for the last one week and now sore throat and dry cough added to it. I went straight inside to get some tablets. While the shopkeeper was searching for some tablet I found Strepsils lying down there and I was more than happy to forget the tablets and pay for a big strip of strepsils for LE10 approx. On my way out I was approached by a taxi driver and he agreed to take me to the Aswan bus stop for LE10. On the way were chatting and he was a friendly guy who on knowing I am going to Abu Simbel took me to exact stop where the bus for abu simbel stops, but there was no bus at the time and hence suggested me to take a mini vans used by locals and took me to them who were steps away from the busstop. He asked them to help me and left.
On seeing me they agreed to take me but soon they realized that I am from India and they were afraid. Wondering why? :) I knew they are going to react like this. The route from Aswan to Abu Simbel goes through a desert and foreigners are not allowed to travel without police convoy and the convoy goes only twice daily at around 4 AM in the morning and at 5 PM in the evening. Some tourists were attacked in the past and thats the reason for the security measures. I knew about it. There are many tours going from Aswan to Abu Simbel and all of them are day tours, they start at 3 AM in the morning, join the convoy, reach abu simbel at around 7, spend 2 hours thers and return back to Aswan. But my plan was to stay at Abu Simbel and watch the Sound and light show in the night at the temples which is highly recommended. I was hoping to take the 11 AM pubic bus but later learnt that there is no bus at that time and I had to wait till 5 PM in the evening to take one which left the only option on the mini vans used by locals. After spending around 30 mins trying to convince them saying I look like Nubian and the police wont recognize me and even if caught I will take the blame on myself the driver agreed to take me. Another egyptian local also helped me to convince the driver. I had to pay double LE50 but I did not bother, I just wanted to reach Abu Simbel on time for the show.
I took my seat and we waited for another 30 mins for the van to get full and then we started. I was happy I found some way at last. My happiness lasted just for 20 mins by when we came across a security checkpost. Just a second of glance inside the van a policeman identified me and picked me up and started enquiring about my country, passport etc. The other policeman were condemning the driver for taking me. The polciemen were discussing among themselves of what to do and even they seem to be confused. But one guy asked me to step out and told that I can not go in the van and I need to wait till evening for the convoy. He started askking me why I did not take the convoy. I then explained him that I need to see the Sound and Light Show and I cant make it if I take the convoy and my willingness to stay there overnight. He was not convinced and was not ready to allow me. The pocliemen even got back LE50 which I had paid to the driver and gave me back. They asked me to take my backpack and I was out of the van with my backpack wonderng what to do now. I was just desperately starring at them. There came the last question from one of the policemen "are you muslim?" I answered "No", the other one asked "are you christian?" I answered "No", wondering what the first person again asked what my religion is, I answered "Hindu". On hearing that their reactions turned positive and they said "You can go ahead in the van and wished me to enjoy their sound and light show". They were happy to hear my answer and I was totally surprised. Within a couple of minutes all the policemen surrouning us dispered wishing me and I was just so extremely happy. I thanked the policemen, and the driver started the van with a big sign of relief in his face. Everyone at the scene were happy :). This is the first time in my life my religion had any impact in my activities either it be positive or negatie and it still is the only time.
It was around 3:30 PM when I reached the hotel. The hotel owner took me to show the room and quoted a price of LE180, but I was expecting a price of LE140 and he agreed to my price without any bargain. I went to the room and left my backpack there to go out and have lunch. Though the hotel Owner informed me that they serve great food, he could not find anyone to serve me when I went to the resaurant inside. I decided to try out somewhere as I was very hungry and started walking. With the help of locals there I went to a small foodshop and was happy to see vegetarian local egyptian food on display there. I pointed out and took 4 of them including falafal, tamaya, pita, vegetables. The food was really good and tasty and I ate to my stomach full. It costed me only LE15 compared to the unsatisfactory continental food I had in Luxor for LE50 twice. I decided to stick with this menu for the rest of my stay in egypt. After having food and getting some water I went back to the hotel to take some rest. I took a short nap for 30 mins and at around 5:00 PM decided to head to the temples.
Day 5: 6th March 2010: Abu Simbel - Aswan
The first sight of the temples in the morning was impressive and there were just few people at the site against the thousands of tourists who reach there by 8 AM from Aswan. I was glad to be there surrounded by just a few tourists and I had the temple for myself most of the times. I was so impressed by the sight and size of the statues, I took so many photographs of them, I also took help from many other tourists to get my pic taken with the temples there :). The sun was yet to comeout and the statues were lit by the dim morning light giving it a different view. As the Sun started rising the colour of the temples started to change reflecting the colours of the Sun and it was absolutely awsome, It was the reason I decided to stay overnight when compared to thousands of tourists who visit the temple on a day trip.

The temples were on the banks of the Nile river and face the Sun and twice during the year the sunlight enter the temple thorugh the main door and illuminate the 4 statues of gods seated at the interior of the Big temple, this is celebrated as a festival there. Does is sound impossible, yes it does happen. This year it happened once on Feb 22nd, 10 days before the day I was there. After sunrise I went indise the big temple to see if I could get a glimpse of it, atleast the sunlight should fall somewhere inside the temple. To my astonishment it seems to be true, the light did enter the temple and that day it did not reach the gods but besides them. Though it was restricted to take a pic inside the temple I could not resist taking one there as I was the only one inside the temple and the security were not there. I felt guilty but still cant help clicking one.
The small temple on the other hand gave me a magical experience. I was all alone inside when I entered. There were many inscripts on temple of different animals, brids, etc.. as seen in all other temples. I just moved my fingers genlty over one of the inscripts of a parrot/bird. Believe me or not withtin seconds a parakeet entered the temple and started flying around me. At first I thought its a coincidence, but soon I moved from that place to other part of the temple inside and it was there again following me. I started moving all around the inside of the temple and the bird just followed me flying around me all the time from one end of teh wall to the other end. I was shocked and at the same time feared. This kind of thing had never happened to me. I dont know what to so, sometimes if was flying so close to my face and with so much speed my heart started pumping hard. Now I really felt I am linking two things unnecessarily ( me moving my fingers over the inscript of a bird and the bird entering the temple and as I was the only person inside it must be flying around me ) so I thought to give it a test. After deciding to test it I moved to another corner of the temple and soon the bird was not there, it went away. I didn't leave I went again to the same inscript and moved my hand over again :))), the bird appread again ( hehe I am lying this time). It did not come back and now I was convinced it was all my interpretation ;). Soon I left the temple
On my way out I decided to get a pic taken with both the temples together, I went to a spot from where both the temples can be captured in the camera frame. But there was no one to click a picture of mine, so I timed my camera and kept it over a focus light there to get my picture taken myself. After a couple of attempts I succeded. After all I need a photo to display and show that I had been there :)

As I wrote before the temples were on the banks of the Nile and I was also served with the best sunrise scene ever. After the entering the Temple complex in the morning, the first thing I noticed after the temples was the beauty of the Nile river at dawn. The Sun not only changed colours of the temple but also the Nile and its surroundings. The sight of the Nile waters, the mountains behing them, and the rays of the sun starting to rise up behind the mountains are just cinematic. These 10 to 15 mins were among the most beautiful sights of nature I have seen. The colurs of the scenic nature around me too started changing drastically every minute and it was a treat to the eyes and soul. The flock of early birds crossing the river in starting the search for their prey was another interesting sight. All of these happened within minutes and by the next hour all the colours were gone and all that was left was just blue.
I spent enough time at the temples and decided to return back to the hotel. It was around 7:45 AM and I had the best 2 hours of my egypt trip. When I started walking around the mountain towards the entrance, the tourist crowds started to arrive and they flocked the place. On my way back to the hotel I saw many more buses on their way to the temple. I was so glad I made a wise decision to stay at Abu simbel than taking the day tour from Aswan. All these tourists have missed the best part of Abu simbel by taking the day tour. I went back to the hotel to have my breakfast but the hotel ownere informed me that they do no provide breakfast and henvce I had to go out to a nearby hotel to get my breakfast. I have a stuffed falafel in Pita and it filled my stomach. When asked for the price after having I got a shock, he said LE1... what just LE1. I cant believe. That was the cheapest best food I had in egypt. I happily paid him, returned back to my hote, packed my backpack and checked out at around 8:15 AM.
I went directly to the buststop in front of the hotel to check if there are any buses to Aswan, but none. I then asked the locals there about transportation to Aswan and they guided me to a place from where I can catch a mini van. The van was the same kind I took the previous day from Aswan. I was told a price of LE30, I was happy this time they told the right price and I got in to the Van. I waited in the Van for 10 mins and there were just 3 persons inside including me and I was told that there is no timing for the van and it will go when full. I did not want to take any chance waiting. I knew that there are lots of tourist buses and vans which came from Aswan and will leave back around 9 AM back to Aswan. I started walking towards the temple as thats where I can find the tourist buses along with the police convoy. On the way I saw a few buses parked but when I asked them if I can get in to one of them they mentioned that they are of company's and they can not take me, instead they guided me to try near the temple. I tried again with another one and was turned down again. After walking for another 5 mins towards the temple there was another tourist Van waiting, the driver started to look at me walking towards him and I enquired if he can drop me in Aswan. He was ready to take me but quoted a higher price. I negotiated with him for LE50 but he was stuck at LE60. As I did not have any other option I settled for LE60 and got in to the Van. This was much more comforatable and luxurious compared to the one I took the day before. After picking me up the driver went to the parking site at the temple to wait for his guests. After waiting for 15 mins his guests came back and within 10 mins, sharply at 9:00 we started with the police convoy to Aswan. There were atleast 20 to 30 vehicles there and I could not imaging how much the temple complex would have been crowded.
Day 6: 7th March 2010: Cairo
This time it was the train staff who knocked at the cabin doors and woke us up as early as around 6:30 AM. Soon after waking us up he came to remove the bedding supplies even before the train stopped, but anyways they were no more needed. Breakfast was served around 7 AM and thankfully it was vegan and I finished almost everything except for an orange and a bun which I could not finish and stored it in my backpack for future use if any need arises (I managed to finish off the bun but sadly the orange ended up in a dustbin after a week in Canada, well atleast it had a chance to travel abroad before its lifetime :)). After the breakfast I had a chat session with my cabinmate.
The train staff informed us that that we would reach Cairo at around 8 AM and the first stop wsa the Giza station and then Cairo City Station. I got my some change of small bills from the train staff as I knew I had to do a lot of bargaining today and its not possible without carrying small currecny bills. My plan for the day was originally to get down at City Station nearby the Australian hostel where I had kept my luggage and take a day tour with them covering Memphis, sakkara, Citadel-of Salah Mosque, Egyptian Museum and a bazaar. Since I had a bad first day I decided to skip the Mosque,Museum and bazzar to go back to the pyramids again. Yes I was completely disappointed
with my first day trip to Pyramids. I decided to get down at the Giza station which is nearby to the Giza pyramids. I changed my clothes, packed my backback and was ready to get down and venture to the Pyramids on my own this time without any tour as I now have enough experience surviving in egypt. At around 8 AM the train reaached Giza station. Bidding adieu to my cabin friend I got down at the Giza station and went out to find some way to reach the Pyramids site which is around 15Km from there. As usual I went to a policemen to ask about the transport as I could not find any buses or public transport nearby, but before he answered I was approaced by a taxi driver and he was ready to take me to the Pyramids Site. And as usual again the next thing in the process is the bargain which was at its peak this time as my cash limits are pushed to the minimal extreme on the last day. I bargained hard and did not giveup to pay more than LE10 and I won. He took me to his taxi which was parked at some other place and I had a hard sight seeing his car. That might have been the oldest running car I had ever seen. Though it looked so old, it was neat and clean and all I wanted was to reach the pyramids and did not think much about the car. I had a nice chat with the driver on the way, he sounded friendly as other taxi drivers I had encountered throughout my trip and I thought he would take me to the right spot. His name was Mohammad. Actaully I do not remember his name exactly but it should be Mohammad/Mahmoud as 70% of the locals whom I intereacted with had this name only.
It was about an half hours ride after which we almost reached there. But instesd of taking me to the ticket counter directly he took me to one of his friends camel stable maneuvering through the narrow streets. I reminded him to take me to the ticket counter but he ignored. I tried to explain him that I had already taken a horse ride around the pyramids area but he did not understand. he introduced me to his friend at Camel stable who spoke good english. I explained him that I had laready taken a ride and why would i do it again. he seemed to understand I had been plundered already and I am not his customer. He told the driver and we left the place. Now I thought he will take me to the ticket counter direclty, but he did not bother my reminders and still took me to another horse stable nearby. Even there I had to convince the horse guy saying that I had alreday done it and I ignored him as he did not seem to understand. When I asked the driver to take to the ticket counter, he said that was the ticket counter and asked me to get down there and pay the fare. I know he is lying, but he was disappointed as he could not make money out of me by getting a part of what the camel guys would take from me. On insisting again he asked me to pay LE5 extra to go to the ticket counter. I refused and he left after I got down as I knew that the entrance is nearby somewhere as I had already been in that area. Even after he left the horse guy kept touting me and I lost my patience and shouted at him. He too shouted back at me, but both of us were not in a quarrel mode so it ended up we ignoring each other. Getting directions from a local there I walked to the ticket counter in 5 mins and I reached there by around 9 AM.
At the ticket counter I was helped by a security to get tickets(LE60) though I could have got it on my own. he just tried helping me wihout my approach. I did not have proper change for the tickets and the ticket issuer took out some old torn LE1 bills which I refused to take and hence had to ask the people besides for change and got it after a couple of attempts. After getting the tickets this security guy started telling me about others tickets to Enter the pyramids, boat musem etc which I already knew and he was insisting to get one of those tickets. He also said that those tickets needs to be purchased at another entrance which is on the other side and far away and they have only limited tickets per day. I previously was thinking to enter the small pyramid but that was closed that day. I didn't want to enter the great Pyramid as it needs more time, more money(LE100) and more energy. I told him I dont need any but still he insisted. After sometime he gave up and asked me to go through he other entrance to decide there. I didn't understand why I should go to the other entrance while I was standing just few feets in front on this entrance. I started doubting him and immediately grabbed my tickets from him which he was holding tight. He too happened to be a tout who must have been trying hard indirectly to make me go to the other entrance by means of a camel or a horse. I ignored him soon and went to the security check post which was few feets away. Though the real security guys were seeing all these they did not seem to say anything to him. Well I guess it is all mutual understandings, and as I am from India I can understand these mutual understandings. Atlast I am actually inside the official Giza Pyramids area ( yes, the sound and light show happens from a different entrance though just seperated by a small fence)
There were too many camels with their owners offering ride and approaching me all the time. I had to keep saying "La Shukran" ( No ThankYou). But one of them insisted much and got down from his camel, took the camera from me to take a photograph of mine for me and handed over the stick which is used to control the camel and asked me to pose. Though I refused first, it was tempting and I accepted. While Posing he was not able to operate the camera and when I went back to explain him how it works "booom" he dropped my camera down on the hard land. I was shaken. For a moment I though I need to take out my other camera now. But he picked it up soon to check and I grabbed from him to see that no big damage has been done and it was still working though it was covered with sand dust. When I was cleaning he was still insisting to get the photograph taken and all I was interested in was to clean the camera and get away from and exactly did the same.
Besides the great pyramid was the entrance the solar boat museum with the entrance tickets priced at LE50. It has the puttogether part of a solat boat found at the pyramid. I was in a double-mind to decide whether to get in or not and decided not to thinking of my cash limits. I am still in a double-mind thinking if I should have entered there or not. Mey be next time if at all I get to go there.
I started walking in exactly the opposite direction and in about 20 mins I was getting the partial view of what I was looking for and I gained confidence. I started walking at a faster pace with high hopes of nearing the mission. After about 10 more minutes of walk I was reached a point with the magnificient panoramic view of all the giza pyramids (9 of them total). Mission accomplished with a big satisfaction :)
[This picture also won me a small facebook group photo contest :) ] I had to walk more than a km in the desert to get to this location where only a very few ppl get to, those with the regular tour buses never get here... if one want to experience this view it needs a camel ride or a venture on one's own as I did, and I was so happy to get those camels in the frame :). I sat there for sometime admiring the view of the pyramids which I was searching for. There were also a few tourists who were pasing by on a camel back. A couple had stopped with their guide near the point where I did and were taking photographs. I too wanted my photograph with the panoramic view and their guide took a photo of mine gladly on my request. They left the place soon. I stayed there and wanted to stay longer.
On my way back a man on his donkey approached me and starting chatting and soon offered me his stick and took my camera to take a picture of mine with his donkey and he placed his turban on my head. He took a photoograph of me and asked me to get on top of the donkey which I refused knowing that if I get on top of it it would start walking and I have to beg him to stop it and he would ask for money. He did not insist and took the picture of me standing besides it and I was happy he had taken a great picture with the view of pyramids at the background. On his signs I gave him some baksheesh though he was looking for more, but I did not have money for myself that day and how would I give him more. (This is one of my fav pics :) )
There was a peak nearby in some distance and I was wondering what view I might get from there and wanted to explore that as well and started walking towards the peak. I just meat a security guy over there watching the area but the views were not that great as my previous stop. On the way I saw many pebble stones and I had no idea how the pebble stones came there in the desert. I had no clue but I took some of them and still have them. I need to seach in google now to see how they went there first of all. Not satisfied with the new view I went back to my previous viewpoint and sat there for a while. I wanted to take one more photgraph of myself but no one was around. I put my camera on timer and after a few attemps I got a somewhat satisfactory shot. I did not feel like trying more and gave up settling on this one. [ Even after reaching back home and filtering the good ones I skipped this one as it was not striking. Later after few days when I was going through the photographs again I saw this one and tried to edit a bit and see if it is useful. Opened in Picassa, did a bit of editing, straighten, crop, auto-contrast and partial colouring and wow I had a great pic from nowhere. I was amazed at the picture picassa gave me and that is exactly what you see when you open this blog :). The original picture is attached here as well just in case if you are interested to check out ( and I know for sure you would be curious to check out ). ]. The time was around 12 noon and I decided to go back and started walking back. This time as I could see where the entrance was I took the straight line path. On my way there was a lady whom I felt was venturing on the same mission, I asked her and yes she too was, I was happy to direct her in the right direction and started following my eyes towards the entrance.
I went to to the guards to enquire about taxi and a guy approached soon on seeing me looking for taxi and said he can take me there. I was sweating all over and refrehed myself and went back to him. After bargaining hard he accepted to take me to Memphis and Sakkara for LE40 and I was agreed and got in to his car which was parked a few metres away. He was a nice guy who was tryig hard to chat even without knowing english and I was trying to help him understand. He was also interested in learning a few words in Hindi. Before passing thorugh the busy giza streets filled with traffic he got a call from his preferred customer I guess. Since the customer was speaking in english and the taxi driver did not understand it clearly what he was saying he asked me to help him, speak to his customer as his friend and fidn out where he wants to go and what time he wants the pickup. I eradily agreed and spoke to his customer over phone and learnt that he wanted to come to Gizxa pyramids from his hotel and return back and needed the taxi within an hour and gave his address. On telling this to the taxi driver he infromed me that he had to go and service him and requested me to take someother taxi at the end of the street. I had no probs. But even before dropping me he stopped a taxi and explained him where I want to go and left me in the new taxi and left. The new one was a metered taxi and I was free from bargaining for the first and last time in egypt. He too did not know any english and was trying to understand what I was telling and signing. It was 30 mins drive from Giza area to Sakkara area and On my request he took me directly to Memphis passing the Saqqara area.
Memphis is a small town which hosted a famous museum with the big colossal well preserved statue of Ramses II. I asked the taxi driver to wait till I return back, Paid for the entry tickets (LE35 + LE3 parking ) and went inside. I went staright inside the building where the colossal statue was placed. Yes, it was buge in lying down position and only till knees as the rest of leg part might have been destroyed. The Statue was gigantic in a well preserved state. I went around it twice and had some good view from both the bottom and top floors and went out in 10 mins.
I went down straight and waited for a taxi. A taxi with another passenger already inside stopped and I got in without any bargaining this time. I have around LE80 and I knwo for sure that it is sufficeint to reach airport and I had nothing else to do. My Flight was at around 7:00 PM. After getting in I asked about the cost and as he did not know how to say in english took help from the lady passenger and told me that it woudl cost around LE50 ( Which I misunderstood as LE15). The lady also called up someone to find proper english words to tell me that I need to pay extra LE10 for entering the airport for taxi. I was ok. The lady got down soon and we headed to the airport and on the way I had a very nice and friendly chat with the driver. He was the best of all taxi drivers I interacted with there :). After knowing that my flight is only at 7 PM he stopped at a petrol bunk nearby to fill petrol and soon we were back on road to airport. Along the way I saw many nice mosques but was already done with taking photos. In approximately an hour at around 4:30 we reached airport and he was confused with the terminals and took me to some terminal whcih he though was the right one. On confirming with a security guy he was sure that was the right terminal. I asked him for price and he said LE50. Though I though LE15 I was watching the meter in his taxi and it showed more than LE50. By then I knew I heard it wrong and I paid him LE50 on getting down. He also reminded of LE10 and I gladly paid him.
Soon after I got down he got a customer to go back and I headed inside. I found that was not the right terminl and had to walk across the build with my big tryooly luggages to the right terminal as I did on my first day searching for luggage storage. I had enough time so I was not worried. On reaching the terminal and after a long wait at checkin quere I finally checked in and on to the gates. At the back of my mind I still had a mission which has not been accomplished. My coin,currency collection. I went to the shops which I saw there near the waiting area and none of them seem to have those denominations. I saw an antique store and on enquiry he shoed me a pack of coins which seemed to have 2 of the denominations and another pack having one of the other. But the price he quoted was $10 for one and LE20 for another. i started to bargain and he was not that flexible. There were also other Indians who were bargaining there and they were also checking for these packs. I was also worried if they will pick it up. Since I was not satisfied with the price I left and started to search the denominations in other shops around but no success. I lost hope and sat near my gate. I then realized that I had around $6 USD + LE20 + 5CAD + some CAD coins. All I wanted is 3CAD from now on to reach my home from airport which is the fare for the bus from airport to my home in canada. I decided to go and get the coins as I know it is difficult to get them once out of egypt, that was my last chance there. I went back to that antique store and he was quoting a lower price this time to other people who were already bargaining on it, he was ready to give one for $5 USD and the other for LE10. He was not ready to accept canadian currency in coins which I offered first. He wanted a paper bill. I paid him what he wanted and happily took those sets ( he was not ready to give jsut the 3 denominations). one more denomination (a 20 Piastry coin ) was missing to complete my collection. Well I had done everything possible to get it and now its time to give up on it as the boarding has already started. I boarded and took my seat.
Goodbye Egypt, it was a wonderful trip altogether with so much different experiences which I gained by backpacking than taking a tourist route, though tiring. I got chance to see the actual egypt from top to bottom as I was interactiving closely with the locals and taking the public transport all the time and going remote places which are not done by regular tourists. It was an awsome adventure as it was my first all-alone-out-of-country backpacking experience and I was so happy I completed it with most of my plan achieved. But still something in my mind keeps reminding me that I could not get the 20 piastry coin. Its not a big deal , I still have a chance to find it somewhere else and these reminders are afterall just a result of the job being done regularly by our conscience!